.png)
27.7km, 9.5 hours
A long day... My calves have never worked so hard in their lives. We had a 1000m uphill climb to do today. Elevation climbed was probably more as we had to climb up and over a ridge before scrambling down, crossing a river and then climbing up hill to the saddle. But seriously another incredible day and I'd definitely say put two thumb track on your hiking bucket list. It is simply incredible. Just the vast mountains and valleys.
The scenery today just blew me away, again and again so much so when I came over one of the saddles and saw the view before me I just laughed. Laughed in disbelief at the landscape that was in front of me. Laughed because it was just incredible and laughed because it was just me standing there dwarfed by the mountains surrounding me and laughed because I had to hike all over them.
I had the best night sleep in the tent last night. It was nice being protected and cosy near the bank as the wind blew through. Wayne was right. I woke up at 6am and with a slow breakfast and pack up hit the 'track' at 730am. I say track but it wasn't a track we had 7km of following the river upstream through the rocky valley. It was the four of us, Conny, Iván, David, walking together again crossing the river which out of all our river crossings this river was definitely the stronger faster flowing one that required a bit more skill and concentration for the crossings. It was a low cloud misty day and very cold in the morning as the wind blew through the valley. It was definitely a jacket day but I told the crew, I reckon it'll burn off and the sun will come out and we'll get another sunny day. I still cannot believe after 32 days, I've only had 1 actually day of rain and that wasn't even for the whole day. We have had sunshine and blue sky the majority of the time.
I'd been thinking today that I cannot remember the last time something annoyed me or I got angry or frustrated over something. The last month of hiking has been nothing but hard work, rewards, good fun and good people. Nothing bad. How often can you say that?!
I was walking alongside Ivan today and asked what he misses most from home (Paris). He said friends or going out with friends. I said similar but it's also why I find it so important to create a group of friends on trail so then of an evening it's like catching up with friends as soon as you get to the hut. Walking solo during the day and then all catching up in the evening is the best! When talking about our friends Ivan (pronounced Evonne), who is the fastest hiker I know, said he was thinking to himself how he likes walking behind /following me. He said he thought me to be someone he can trust/feel safe to follow and that I show compassion and I'm brave. My reaction was 'awww' but mainly because I'd never think that and it was interesting that he being this full on hiker guy would say that about me.
My lesson I have learnt on the TA, is not to write off someone straight away. Ivan is my major TA lesson. When he first came waltzing in to mid wairoa hut on new years eve and took off and had just written 'ghost' in the book, I was like 'ugh what a stuck up guy'. But the last week the more I've spent around him, the funnier and caring guy I've come to realise he is. Not at all what I had first thought. And probably the nicest French Parisian I've ever met in my travels.
I was telling my lesson learnt to Laura during the day and she had also mentioned Brents text to David, something along the lines that the people ahead aren't as fun and so he's now taking two rest days in tekapo so that we can all catch up to him. Laura said what a testament that is to the people we are but then she also said 'thats all your doing. You bring people together'. It hit hard. And more just because I've done nothing except be me. I have not at all gone out of my way to create this community, I've just made friends. I'm having the best time just learning from and getting to know everyone. Conny had also quipped when I said I had a good chat to Wayne our shuttle driver she goes 'everyone has a good chat with you!'. But the fact that people aren't as fun as us made me actually think more on that and then I felt sadness that there are so many people doing the same walk as we are but are completely alone and not connected in and so they miss such a vital part of thru-hiking, the community side.
We hit Stoney Hut and I was so excited because this was to be where Brents picture was. Instead I was met with this note in the book... 'Rats meant i had to move on. Picture at Royal Hut'.
I said to the crew if there's no picture at royal hut I will lose it!
At 230pm we decided to push on another 5.5km to Royal Hut. Of course a river crossing but this time the guys made it more fun/dangerous. It was that old 'floor is lava' game and you could only touch rocks. Normally fine but these distances between rocks were getting further apart and worthy big leaps. 4 grown adults playing and laughing like kids but guess you gotta make your own fun out here.
I came over the hill this afternoon and there was Royal Hut, a simple tin hut in the distance. All I thought was there better be a bloody picture in that hut. On a side note Royal Hut got its name as allegedly Prince Charles and Princess Anne spent a night here when the were children. So I could potentially be sleeping in the same bed King Charles has slept in. Top bunk though so probably not...
I go inside, get the surprise that Sams there then look in the book. It said turn 3 pages from the back. I hesitantly turn to the back. Would you believe it there is a picture... Of powerlines. And the most amazing thing of all it hadn't been drawn by Brent it had been drawn by Tim!! He never ceases to out do himself. Tim had been here! I'd last heard he quit in Hanmer Springs. It was some crazy hiker inception. Brent and Tim weren't even walking this section the same time so we are not sure how this even managed to happen. But I tell you Conny, Laura and I were so happy! It was better than we could have imagined!
Inside Royal Hut tonight was like comedy hour. The hut was warm and it was freezing out and already in the hut was Sam and an older couple Andy and Dee. We just all vibe off each other and make each other laugh so much. That and being paid out by Sam and laughed at at my expense but if you can't laugh at yourself and let others laugh at you whats the point. The boys were all on instant coffee and I've brought with me the more expensive coffee bags that smell & taste like real coffee so I've been generous and given everyone a bag. Meanwhile Ivan who did away with his cooker to save weight and now cold soaks everything, watched him eat about two days worth of food in a sitting. He says he thinks he's eaten about 300 packets of Sealord tuna since he started the TA 100 days ago and reckons he should at least be sponsored by them. He's also been complaining of being hungry all the time now and so Dee, Laura and I joked saying he's probably got lead poisoning from all the tuna.
It's 730pm and we're all in our bunk beds. Ivan and I are on the top bunks opposite sides of the hut but we have a solid metal wire running across at head height that everyone's had a laugh about because for us to get into bed it's like doing limbo. Heaven help me if I have to get up in the night I'll be decapitated. Sam on the bunk below me then joked he would willingly cut a hole in his food bag hanging from the wire so that it would attract mice along the wire over me. This is what I'm putting up with out here.
Ren x
Comments